FAQs

Where do you manufacture your products?

FEI works with a series of reputable major perfume manufacturers in Europe principally in France and E.Europe. Each manufacturing partner is chosen for their capacity, expertise in certain areas and technology available.

How many samples can I have?

Initially we supply small samples we feel match your brief and criteria. Once initial choices are made 25-50 ml samples are provided for technical studies i.e. compatibility etc. Larger samples for pilot batches are available depending upon project status. A charge may be made.

Are natural fragrances made only from essential oils?

No, essential oils are just one of the materials available. Resins, gums are regularly used as are extracts and isolates. Some but not all customers are happy to use absolutes alongside other materials including vegetable oils, compounds from biotechnology extraction via CO2 and natural solvents such as myrtol.

What is an absolute?

They are concentrated, highly aromatic, oily mixtures extracted from plants. Whereas essential oils are produced by distillation, boiling or pressing, absolutes are produced through solvent extraction, or more traditionally, through enfleurage such as in jasmine or rose.

Do essential oils burn true in candles?

Most scented candles contain a combination of natural and synthetic fragrances. These fragrance materials may be derived from essential oils or from synthetic aroma chemicals. Essential oils alone rarely burn true and fragrances for candles are a speciality. Most essential oils blends use a mixture often unbeknown to the small manufacturer. A well-made candle will contain only fragrance materials approved for candle use; the addition of fragrance to a candle formulation should be carefully monitored to ensure that the candle will burn cleanly and properly.

What is a fine fragrance?

All fragrances are a blend of aromatics (Made up of aroma chemicals and essential oils) and a solvent (Usually a blend of de-natured alcohol and water). Eau de toilette/Eau de Parfumes are meant to be sprayed on the pulse points whereas fine fragrance mists are meant to be sprayed all over your body and clothes.

Fine fragrance is the core of our business. Creating a fine fragrance demands the ultimate in quality ingredients and sophisticated formulations. It also requires a virtuoso perfumer to bring all the elements together to create perfection in fragrance form.

What is the difference between Eau De Parfum, Colognes etc?

The differences among these are the amount of compound oils in the fragrance. The most potent type of fragrance that you can buy is the straight perfume. Next would be Eau de Parfum, then Eau de Toilette, and finally Eau de Cologne. The higher the percentage of essential oils the longer your fragrance will last, and the less you need to apply.

Perfume (Parfum): It is the strongest fragrance available, consists of a 15-30% concentration of perfume essence. Eau De Parfum (EDP): It is lighter than Perfume, with an 8-15% concentration, but still has long lasting characteristics, from 3 to 5 hours. Eau De Toilette (EDT): It is lighter than EDP, with a 4-8% concentration of the essence. It usually lasts for 2 to 4 hours. Eau De Cologne (EDC): It is lighter than EDT, often referred to just as Cologne and has the greatest dilution of fragrances with a 3-5% concentration of perfume essence. It usually lasts for 2 hours.

What does your company mean by natural?

SEE PREVIOUS QUESTION. 100% natural means that. Such would be acceptable for Organic classification if all the ingredients come from organic farming but it up to the brand to register the certification not FEI. There are other labels such as ECO requiring 95% of ingredients must be of natural origin but 50% must come from organic farming and another label, BIO where 95% must be of natural origin, 10% of ingredients must come from organic farming and of plants used 95% must be from organic farming.

Are synthetic fragrance materials safe?

It is important to mention that synthetic fragrance does not necessarily cause more allergic reactions than natural fragrance. Both of them contain ingredients called allergens – substances that cause allergies. Regarding fragrance and cytotoxicity (cell death): both synthetic and natural fragrances can be cytotoxic. Some of the great masterpieces e.g. Chanel No 5 and CK one would not exist without synthetic ingredients. In some instances, we are “helping save the planet” by using synthetics, from a sustainability angle, fragrance from rare or protected raw materials, such as Sandalwood, can be reproduced without the risk of extinction!

Like all cosmetics, the safety of fragrances is regulated by specific laws which ensure that all fragrances used in cosmetic products are safe to use.

Does fragrance-free mean no smell?

No, most things smell of something according to the sensitivity of the nose. If someone buys a fragranced product, he or she can reasonably expect that fragrance to be noticeable after the product has been used. In contrast, they should not be able to notice any smell after using a fragrance-free, unscented or unperfumed product. However, unscented or unperfumed products may well contain a small amount of fragrance to cover-up, or mask, the natural smell of the ingredients in the product.

What is a functional fragrance?

This means a fragrance that is used for its biological properties or effects such as an essential oil that warms as well smells pleasant. A smell that makes one hungry etc.

What technical information do you supply with your fragrances?

Every fragrance supplied will have a list of allergens, IFRA certificate providing usage levels, product specification, safety data sheet. Other certificates should be requested at briefing time i.e. Halal, Kosher, Organic etc.

Do you have your own perfumers?

Of course we do and some trained and experienced in functional fragrance such as aromatherapy. We also work with independent or manufacturers own perfumers depending upon the brief given and the complexity or speciality of the work involved?

How long should I expect to wait for samples?

If a fragrance has been created before and exists in our library a smell sample may e available immediately. If a working sample is required, then materials have to be ordered and compounded and this takes two to three weeks. A new or created perfume could well take a month or more. This is usually required for important brands that want an exclusive or fashion fragrance. Naturally raw materials will have to be obtained, creative time taken and then safety and other safety issues completed – hence it takes time.

Remember, if a rival can give you a turn around in a few days then it is not creative but off the shelf and probably rejected by a previous customer. It implies that common raw materials are readily available.

Do essential oils & naturals come in different quantities?

Yes, they do some maybe organically certified. Others can be wild crafted (always in short supply but superior odour). Pure and natural to FEI means from one source or farm and not blended. Natural usually refers to a blend formed by a coop from one species only. Some oils are standard i.e. rectified to maximise a specific chemical constituent such as linalool or eucalyptol.

In addition, as essential oils are farm produce the season, species, cultivar all make for differences in value and consequently price. In the market essential oils are commonly and fraudulently sold as well as adulterated.

What does organic mean?

An organic material must be grown with attention to soil structure and the microflora present in a living soil. This also entails not using a variety of herbicides, pesticides and fertilisers. There are a number of certifying bodies who issue certificates of origin for organic materials.

Do you use Palm Oil as an ingredient?

Palm oil is not a fragrance ingredient and so is not used in any of the fragrances we supply. In addition, we do not supply palm oil and all of our products are palm oil free. In the unlikely event we had occasion to need palm oil, we would ensure it came with GreenPalm certification ie from a plantation independently audited and certified against the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil standard.

 

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